I've been thinking of posting this for awhile:

Well, on the surface, it is like a medieval pilgrimage.. and I couldn't help but
be reminded of Renaissance criticisms of the commercial nature of such things.
On the other hand, I now understand the benefit of such enterprises as well. It
can be a wonderfully contemplative experience.

Though I usually like to travel "Lonely Planet" style, the family with whom I
was staying in Alexandria insisted I take a tour. So I did take one from Sharm
el Sheikh (about three hours south of Mt. Sinai or Gebel Musa ("Moses Mountain"
as its called there). The bus left at about 11 pm and the tourists hiked up in
the middle of the night. It is VERY cold. I would estimate about 20 F (~ -7 C).
However, it is about a 4 mile hike, up the "camel path", at about a 20% grade
(my estimate) most of the way, until the 700 steps tot he summit. There are
also 3400 steps carved by the monks, the "steps of penance," that lead to the
summit, more on those later. Needless to say, I was sweating most of the way.

The path was full of people. Primarily large tourist groups, though some people
did emerge from the monastery (which has a guest house open to all) and come
with our group.

Of course, it was pitch black, and I could only see as far as my flashlight in
front of me... and the long line lights in front of and behind me. I could,
however smell the camel dung I constantly stepped in, and the camel flatulence
that was constantly being released in front of me. There are bedouins all up
and down the path, offering to take people to the 700 steps (for a hefty fee
of course; because it was a rather strenuous hike. There are also shacks along
the path selling tea and candy bars (staffed by the ubiquitous Bedouins trying
to squeeze every dollar they can from the people). I almost bought a scarf from
them (for 10 dollars, a fortune in Egypt) at the base of the mountain but I
rightly surmised I'd warm up over the course of the hike. It was in one of
these shacks that I unfortunately saw the "ugly American" emerge (in fact one of
the only Americans I saw in Egypt), when a woman started yelling at a Bedouin
because he didn't mix enough coffee with the water... "DON'T YOU PEOPLE KNOW
HOW TO MAKE A NESCAFE?"

Anyway, I made it to the top of the mountain just as the sun was rising... (this
was by design... a bit corny but it really was beautiful).


As for the landscape... it is so stark, one cannot help but be affected by it.
It certainly met all the expectations built in my mind by the book of Exodus.
Its not joking when it says its a wilderness. But more impressive than the
landscape... was the people.

There was a group of Korean Catholics who held a service as the sun was rising,
they would chant and cheer everytime a member of their group reached the
summit. (many of them were rather elderly) There was a group of Russians who
would cross themselves and silently pray. And there was a group of Nigerian
Protestants who sang some of the most beautiful hymns I've heard in my life.
The joy on the people's faces, and the sense of brother/sisterhood and
peacefulness was one of the most inspirational things I've ever seen. I will
keep many of those faces different and wonderful as they were, though I will
probably never see them again, with me always.

There is an Orthodox chapel on the summit (as well as a mosque), but
unfortunately it was closed. Still, I couldn't help but feel that no building
in that spot could contain the holiness one feels there.

Now I realize that there is scholarly doubt as to whether or not this is Sinai.
I personally am inclined to believe that it is. And while I was there I was
certainly awestruck by the thought that this was where Moses spoke with God...
Where one of the most important events in history took place. That said, I
don't think it REALLY matters if it is Sinai or not... Christianity isn't about
fetishes.. and its meaning transcends and physical space.

After spending a few hours there, we started our descent. My group took the
"steps" on the way down. When I read of them, I imagined 3400 steps in a line
making a sheer descent down the mountain... it is more like uneven slabs of
rock placed at irregular intervals. Still it is considerably shorter in
distance than the path. That said, as it was so jagged, and many of the steps
covered in ice, I would not have wanted to ascend it in the dark!

The way the sunlight played of the mountains really emphasized the desolation of
the Sinai peninsula. The only living thing (that wasn't a tourist) that I saw
on the way down was one solitary thorn bush. Too good to be true, I took a
picture (of course, there is a bush on the monastery grounds that the monks
claim is descended from the burning bush).

One advantage the steps have though is breathtaking views of the
fortress-monastery at the base of the mountain.


At the base of the mountain, the monastery itself is splendid. The church is
basilica style and has a very ancient mosaic of the Transfiguration. It also
has the oldest icons I've ever seen (dating from the 6th century), as well as a
world class museum (some rich Greek must have ponied up quite a bit for that).
I didn't have time to enter the famous library.

Contrary to what many have said, the monks were by no means condescending or out
for money. In fact, the monks didn't want to take any of my money. They
wouldn't even let me pay to enter the museum. (I hope that they treat
non-Greeks well too... most, but not all, of the monks are Greek) I have a
feeling that anyone who enters with a respectful/devout attitude will find the
monks most hospitable. They are human though, and I'm sure even they are pushed
to their limits by so many tourists. I was exhausted by the climb... but felt a
bit ashamed to see one of the monks walking UP the steps as I was walking
down... at 8 am!




It is my great regret that I was not able to stay for services. My tour left at
10 am.. and in fact I didn't even have time to see the entire museum. I really
wanted to stay, but it was a 3 hour drive to the airport.. and my flight left
that afternoon for Cairo. I fervently hope to return!